Apple Scab Explained

Apple scab is a fungal disease that affects apple trees, leading to defoliation and reduced fruit quality. Managing this disease is crucial for maintaining healthy trees and high-quality fruit. In this article, we will explore the causes, symptoms, lifecycle, and effective management strategies for apple scab.

Key Takeaways

• Apple scab, caused by the fungus Venturia inaequalis, weakens trees and affects fruit quality, making early recognition of symptoms crucial for control.
• Effective management of apple scab includes sanitation practices, selecting resistant cultivars, proper planting techniques, and timely fungicide applications.
• Understanding the lifecycle and environmental conditions that favor apple scab helps predict outbreaks and implement timely interventions.

Understanding Apple Scab

Apple scab is a fungal disease caused by the fungus Venturia inaequalis. While apple scab isn’t fatal, it can severely weaken trees by causing defoliation, which in turn increases their vulnerability to other diseases and pests. The presence of apple scab reduces the quality and size of the fruit, making it less marketable and desirable. In severe cases, the disease can lead to total crop failure, impacting both commercial growers and home gardeners alike.

The typical scab lesions on leaves and fruit are not just unsightly; they can cause significant damage. Unchecked defoliation leads to increased susceptibility to other diseases and pests, creating a vicious cycle of declining tree health. Gaining insight into this apple disease equips you to manage and control apple scab more effectively in your orchard.

Recognizing Symptoms of Apple Scab

The first signs of apple scab on leaves are often overlooked. Dull, olive-green areas appear on the undersides of leaves, usually near the buds. These initial symptoms can be subtle, but they quickly progress. As the infection advances, the olive-green spots become more pronounced, turning into dark, velvety brown spots that can eventually turn brown and corky. As the lesions develop, including pinpoint scabs and leaf spots, they can cause the leaves to yellow, twist, and eventually fall off prematurely.

On the fruit, apple scab manifests as dark, velvety lesions that can distort the fruit and cause cracking. Infected fruit often drops prematurely, reducing the overall yield. The lesions can also lead to sunken, tan scars that might develop velvety spores on the fruit surface. Early recognition of these symptoms is crucial for effectively controlling and managing the disease.

Recognizing symptoms on both leaves and fruit enables timely intervention. Whether you’re a commercial grower or a home gardener, knowing what to look for allows you to take action before the disease can cause significant damage. Effective scab control starts with accurate identification and early management after the early phases of growing your apple tree.

Lifecycle of the Apple Scab Fungus

The apple scab fungus overwinters on fallen leaves and infected twigs. As spring arrives, the fungus survives winter in leaf litter from infected trees. During wet conditions, ascospores are released from pseudothecia, aiding their dispersal to host plants. These mature ascospores peak from late pink through petal fall, marking critical apple scab infection periods.

Initial infections usually manifest in mid-spring and continue until the autumn leaf fall. After the early infection, a secondary infection can produce asexual spores called conidia, leading to multiple infection cycles within the same growing season. Both ascospores and conidia require a period of wetness to germinate and establish new infections on host plants during the infection period, contributing to the disease cycle in early spring.

Knowing the lifecycle of the apple scab fungus aids in effective management. Knowing when and how the fungus spreads allows for timely interventions to control apple scab and protect your trees from severe damage.

Conditions Favoring Apple Scab Infection

Apple scab thrives in specific environmental conditions. The development of apple scab is encouraged by extended wet and humid conditions that typically occur from late April to June. Cool and damp spring weather is particularly conducive to apple scab outbreaks. Higher humidity levels significantly contribute to the intensity of apple scab infections.

Infection by apple scab is triggered when spores come into contact with wet leaf surfaces. A six to eight-hour moisture period is required for the spores to germinate and infect the leaves. Rainfall aids in the increased spore production and dispersal of the apple scab fungus. Monitoring moisture and temperature conditions can help predict outbreaks and ensure the timely application of fungicides.

Host Plants and Susceptibility

Apple scab affects various host plants, primarily apples, crabapples, mountain ash, hawthorn, and other Malus species. Common susceptible apple cultivars include Red Delicious, Rome Beauty, and Granny Smith, which face significant challenges due to their high susceptibility to scab. Varieties such as Jonagold, Melrose, and Spartan display intermediate resistance, while cultivars like Akane, Chehalis, Liberty, and Tydeman Red show good resistance to apple scab.

Severely infected apples and crabapple trees produce poor-quality fruit and suffer reduced health due to leaf loss. Young apple fruit is notably more susceptible to apple scab infections, while mature fruit has significantly lower susceptibility to Malus spp.

Understanding the susceptibility of different host plants and apple cultivars helps guide effective planting choices and management strategies for the apple scab fungus

Effective Management Strategies for Apple Scab

Effective management of apple scab requires an integrated approach that combines sanitation practices, selecting resistant cultivars, and proper planting techniques. These strategies can notably reduce the incidence and severity of apple scab in your orchard.

Sanitation Practices

Sanitation practices help reduce or eliminate the primary inoculum, which can lead to apple scab infections. Removing fallen leaves in the fall can eliminate winter survival sites for the fungus. Pruning infected leaves and raking under trees are effective methods to manage apple scab.

Shredding leaf litter accelerates decomposition and reduces fungal spore survival. Destroying leaf debris from infected trees prevents the fungus from surviving through winter.

Mulching leaves can help reduce the buildup of pathogens that cause storage scab. Collecting and discarding fallen infected leaves improves airflow and assists in managing susceptible apple trees.

Selecting Resistant Cultivars

Choosing resistant cultivars is a key strategy for long-term apple scab management. Apples such as Akane, Chehalis, Liberty, Prima, and Tydeman Red demonstrate good resistance to apple scab. If your tree has had severe scab issues in the past, it’s wise to think about replacing it. Consider selecting a variety that is resistant to this problem.

This approach not only helps manage apple scab but also improves fruit quality and reduces the need for chemical treatments, making it a sustainable option for commercial and home gardeners.

Proper Planting Techniques

Effective planting techniques significantly aid in controlling apple scab. Adequate spacing of apple trees ensures better air movement, crucial in reducing moisture-related diseases. Effective management involves not only the removal of fallen leaves but also ensuring proper air circulation around the plants.

These practices help reduce leaf wetness and create an unfavorable environment for the apple scab fungus. By implementing proper planting techniques, you can enhance the overall health and productivity of your apple trees.

Fungicide Treatments for Apple Scab

Fungicide treatments are an essential part of managing apple scab. Recommended fungicides for controlling apple scab include captan, lime-sulfur, scab sprays, and powdered or wettable sulfur.

Fungicides prevent infections but cannot cure established diseases. They protect only healthy trees and are ineffective on diseased trees.

Protectant Fungicides

Protectant fungicide sprays and cover sprays should be applied at critical growth stages, including the green tip and pink bud stages, and continued at regular intervals thereafter to effectively prevent initial infections. Fungicides work by creating a protective spray barrier on the plant, preventing fungal spores from causing infections on leaves and fruit.

Applying protectant fungicides at optimal times can significantly lower the risk of apple scab infections. Following label instructions and ensuring thorough coverage are essential for maximum effectiveness.

Post-Infection Fungicides

Post-infection fungicides should be used soon after wet weather to manage disease spread. These fungicides are applied to manage the spread of disease after initial infections occur. They can supplement a program of protectant sprays, providing an additional layer of control during infection periods.

Prompt use of post-infection fungicides after wet conditions helps control new infections and prevents further spread, allowing the plants to remain healthy. This approach is particularly useful during periods of high disease pressure.

Monitoring and Timing for Effective Control

Effective control of apple scab relies heavily on precise monitoring and timing. Apple scab is more prevalent during cool, wet spring weather, with high rainfall and relative humidity contributing to infection cycles. Regular checks for scab lesions should be performed on the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, throughout the canopy, to monitor infection levels effectively.

Fungicide applications should start around the green tip stage of apple growth and continue every 7 to 14 days until wet weather subsides for maximum control. Post-infection fungicides can be effective shortly after wet conditions and can supplement a program of protectant sprays.

Addressing Storage Scab

Storage scab develops from infections in the orchard shortly before harvest. Active leaf infection just before harvest can infect fruit, leading to storage scab. This can significantly impact the quality and marketability of stored fruit.

To prevent storage scab, growers should manage leaf infections and apply fungicides shortly before harvest. Proper sanitation and diligent monitoring also help reduce the risk.

Preventing Fungicide Resistance

Preventing fungicide resistance is vital to maintaining effective apple scab control. Rotating active ingredients of fungicides is recommended to minimize the risk of developing resistance. Employing multiple active ingredients in fungicides ensures effective control and reduces the chance of resistance development.

Employing multi-site fungicides lowers the risk of developing resistant strains of the fungus responsible for storage scab. Limiting the use of high-risk fungicides in a control program for apple scab is also advisable.

Apple Scab Summary

Effectively managing apple scab requires a comprehensive approach that includes understanding the disease, recognizing its symptoms, and implementing integrated management strategies. Combining sanitation practices, selecting resistant cultivars, and using proper planting techniques can significantly reduce the incidence and severity of apple scab. Fungicide treatments, both protectant and post-infection, play a crucial role in controlling the disease. Monitoring and timing are key to ensuring the effectiveness of these interventions.

Preventing fungicide resistance through the rotation of active ingredients and employing multi-site fungicides is essential for long-term control. By following these guidelines, you can keep your apple trees healthy and productive, ensuring a bountiful harvest. Stay vigilant and proactive in managing apple scab, and your efforts will be rewarded with high-quality fruit and robust trees.

Apple Scab Frequently Asked Questions

What causes apple scab?

Apple scab is caused by a fungus called Venturia inaequalis, which survives winter on fallen leaves and infected branches. Proper sanitation and management practices can help control its spread.

How can I recognize the symptoms of apple scab?

You can recognize apple scab by looking for dull, olive-green spots on the undersides of leaves that develop into dark, velvety lesions. Similar dark lesions may appear on the fruit, often causing distortion and cracking.

What environmental conditions favor apple scab infection?

Apple scab infection is favored by extended wet and humid conditions, particularly during cool and damp spring weather. Managing these environmental factors is crucial for preventing the disease.

What are some effective management strategies for apple scab?

To effectively manage apple scab, utilize sanitation practices, select resistant varieties, implement proper planting techniques, and consider fungicide treatments. Each of these strategies can significantly reduce the risk of infection and promote healthier apple production.

How can I prevent fungicide resistance in managing apple scab?

To prevent fungicide resistance in managing apple scab, rotate fungicide active ingredients, use multiple active ingredients, and incorporate multi-site fungicides into your strategy. This approach not only enhances effectiveness but also reduces the risk of resistance development.

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

Marietta, GA
(678) 505-0266

Originally published on: https://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/apple-scab-explained/

Tree Disease Treatment

Avoid your trees falling or dying from a disease that can often be treated. Knowing how to identify and treat tree diseases will prevent avoidable death, and help you encourage healthy, robust tree growth.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on identification and treatment of anthracnose, canker diseases, and Dutch elm disease, all of which attack, weaken, and kill trees.

3 Tree Diseases

The following three tree diseases can be tricky to treat. However, once you identify a disease and know how it affects your tree, you can take immediate action to treat it. The following are three common diseases found on trees in the US and around the world:

Anthracnose Tree Disease

Anthracnose is a common fungal disease infecting shade trees. The disease causes the following symptoms:

• Bud death
• Twig death
• Leaf cupping/curling
• Dead, irregular spots on leaves
• Dead tissue along leaf veins
• Dead blotches between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop

Treat an anthracnose disease infection by:

Avoiding Spraying Tree Foliage – Anthracnose fungi depend on splashing water and wind to carry them from one host to another. If you try to wash the disease off the foliage, you contribute to the fungi’s perpetuation.

Collecting and destroying fallen leaves – Dead leaves (when left on the ground) provide an optimal location for fungi to lie dormant.

Pruning – The fungi and acervuli (fruiting structures) found in blighted twigs should be pruned back and destroyed. Crown thinning allows more air and light to reach inner branches and foliage; this helps fight against the fungi.

Note: In extreme cases of infection, excessive pruning may be required. When this is the case, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation.

Tip: Destroy pruned portions of the tree and its leaves in a fire pit or have a bonfire.

Tree Canker Diseases

Cankers are localized areas of bark and cambium necrosis (dead spots commonly exhibiting an open wound) on stems, twigs, branches, and/or the trunk caused by bacteria or fungi. Canker disease causes trees to display the following symptoms:

• Leaf chlorosis
• Reduced twig and smaller leaf growth
• Dead leaves remain attached to the tree
• Dead branches or limbs (dieback)
• Water sprouts growing from the trunk, large limbs, or roots
• White, decayed sapwood in the tree’s cankered areas
• Outer bark sloughing off of branches and/or trunk

Treat cankers on limbs and branches as follows:

• Carefully prune affected limbs and branches from the tree.
• Wood infected by any bacteria or fungi should be handled cautiously.
• Do not run these limbs and branches through a wood chipper.
• This wood can and should be burned.

Treat cankers on tree trunks as follows:

When cankers reach the tree trunk, there is little to nothing you can do to prevent the tree’s eventual decline and death. However, if your tree was healthy and robust when the infection occurred, it is possible that the tree compartmentalized (isolated) the infected wood on its own.

Note: Hire a professional tree service to carefully evaluate and determine a course of action for your tree.

Dutch Elm Disease

Dutch elm disease (DED), caused by a fungal pathogen (Ophiostoma novo-ulmi or Ophiostoma ulmi), is responsible for the decimation of native American elm species. This disease is most often vectored by European (Scolytus multistriatus) and North American (Hylurgopinus rufipes), and banded elm (S. schevyrewi) elm bark beetles. However, the disease may pass from tree to tree via root grafts with infected trees. Symptoms typically include:

• Leaves on one or more branches in the outer crown turn yellow, wilt, and eventually turn brown.
• Fallen leaves are noticeable in spring or summer.
• Symptoms often appear in late spring and/or early summer but may occur at any time during the tree’s growing season.
• Leaf yellowing and wilting continues down infected branches toward the tree trunk.
• How fast the signs spread down the tree depends on the tree species’ health and susceptibility. Infected trees may die in a single growing season or over multiple years.
• Brown streaking can be seen on the sapwood of wilted branches when the bark is stripped away.
• Confirm a DED infection by sending a sample of branches with leaves displaying symptoms to your University’s local extension for analysis.

Dutch elm disease can be treated when caught in very early stages by:

• Reducing the number of beetle breeding sites by promptly removing dead or dying trees.
• Immediately pruning away DED infected branches.
• Immediately removing trees with many DED infected branches.
• Burying, debarking, burning, or chipping wood from DED infected elm trees.
• Severing root grafts between neighboring elms before the infected tree is removed to prevent infection.

Tip: When considering injectable fungicides to prevent DED, hire a certified arborist to apply the injections.

Note: This disease affects native American elm species, like American (Ulmus americana), slippery (red) (Ulmus rubra), rock (Ulmus thomasii), September (Ulmus serotina), and cedar (Ulmus crassifolia) elms.

Treating Tree Diseases

In this article, you discovered essential information on how to identify and treat anthracnose, canker diseases, and Dutch elm disease before they weaken and kill your trees.

Taking swift action to help your tree and prevent its death will help you save thousands in potential physical and property damages.

Your failure to recognize a tree disease in its beginning phases can result in the swift death of your tree and infection of other surrounding trees.

Sources:
uaex.edu/environment-nature/forestry/health/disease-problems.aspx
ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/plpath-tree-04
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/anthracnose-trees-and-shrubs
s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/687/2015/06/MG-Canker-and-Wilt-Diseases-3.27.15-01.pdf

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062
(678) 505-0266

Originally published on: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/tree-disease-treatment/

Hypoxylon Canker Disease on Oak and Shade Trees (Biscogniauxia Canker)

Keep your tree from becoming an extreme threat to your property and landscape when it is infected by Hypoxylon canker. When you know how to identify and treat this disease, you might save your tree.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information about the definition, identification, treatment, and prevention of Hypoxylon canker.

Hypoxylon Atropunctatum Disease Definition

Hypoxylon atropunctatum is the former, more widely-known name of Biscogniauxia canker or dieback. This disease is a frequent contributor to the decline, decay, and death in a wide range of tree species.

Biscogniauxia fungi are an opportunistic species that do not affect healthy, thriving trees. When a tree is under hydraulic (water), root disease, physical damage, or soil compaction induced stress, these fungi can quickly colonize the host tree.

Once the disease has colonized a tree and produces fruiting structures, it is a signal that the tree is in rapid decline, if not already dead. This is especially true when the infection is located in the trunk.

Identification of Hypoxylon Canker Disease

The following symptoms are indicative of a tree in declining health that may signal the presence of Hypoxylon atropunctatum (Biscogniauxia canker):

• Chlorosis of the tree’s foliage
• Reduced twig growth and smaller leaf growth
• Dead or browned leaves remain attached
• Dead branches or limbs
• Thinning canopy
• Water sprouts growing from the trunk, large limbs, or roots
• White, decayed sapwood in cankered areas of the tree
• Patches of outer bark sloughing off of the branches or trunk

The following are signs to positively identify the fungus:

Early Growth Stages – Looking at cankered areas on a tree, you will see a dark red to brown or olive-green fungal tissue (stroma) over those areas.

Later Growth Stages – Flaking grey surface that reveals a brown to black crusty material with the impression that the area had burned.

Advanced Growth Stages – Small infected patches that eventually merge together to form strips of infected material along the trunk and limbs of the tree.

As the fungus moves through the growth stages, sections of the infected tree’s bark will pop or fall off, revealing a fungal mat where the tree’s cambium should be.

The following tree species can serve as host to Hypoxylon canker disease:

• Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)
• Bigtooth aspen (Populus grandidentata)
• Black poplar hybrids (Populus nigra)
• Balsam poplar (Populus balsamifera)
• European aspen (Populus tremula)
• Violet Willow (Salix daphnoides)
• Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)
• White poplar (Populus alba)
• Southern Live Oak (Quercus virginiana)
• Red Oak (Quercus rubra)
• Blackjack Oak (Quercus marilandica)
• Post Oak (Quercus stellata)
• American sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)

Note: Hypoxylon canker has three primary species that can infect a variety of shade trees. Hypoxylon atropunctatum is commonly found on oak species, Hypoxylon mammatum attacks mostly aspen trees and Hypoxylon tinctor primarily infects sycamore trees. If none of the above trees and species are yours, these are other tree diseases and treatment instructions toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-marietta-ga-tree-diseases-identification-treatment/

Treatment of Hypoxylon Canker Disease

There are no known fungicides that can prevent or cure Hypoxylon canker. It is important to remember the opportunistic trait of this fungus. When it can thrive on its host, that tree’s health is compromised or in decline. The following will help you chose an appropriate course of action:

Hypoxylon Canker on Limbs and Branches – When this disease has infected the limbs and branches (not the trunk) of a tree:

• Those limbs and branches should be carefully pruned from the tree.
• Prune infected limbs and branches in sections if needed to minimize disturbing infected areas.
• Wood infected by any species of fungi should be handled as highly transmissible to surrounding trees.
• Do not run these limbs and branches through a wood chipper.
• This wood can be burned.

Hypoxylon Canker on Tree Trunks – When this disease has infected the tree trunk, there is nothing you can do to prevent the decline and eventual death of the tree:

• Hire a professional tree service to carefully remove the tree.
• Do not run a Hypoxylon canker infected tree through a wood chipper.
• This wood can be burned.

Hypoxylon canker thriving on a tree is a clear indication that the tree was already in distress.

Prevention of Hypoxylon Canker Disease

Hypoxylon canker may already be present on your tree, waiting for the tree’s defenses to weaken. Some ways to prevent this disease from developing include:

• Remove any trees that have developed cankers on their trunks. As these trees die, they become an extreme hazard to property, people, and surrounding trees.
• Prune branches and limbs with cankers before they reach the trunk.
• If 25% of the tree’s crown will be lost from pruning, consult a professional tree service to evaluate the condition of the tree and recommend a course of action.
• Avoid planting poplar, willow, oak, and aspen near trees with Hypoxylon infections until those trees have been removed.
• Mulch your trees.
• Water your trees and provide frequent deep waterings during periods of extreme heat and drought.
• Perform annual soil tests and adjust your use of fertilizer to provide the appropriate nutrients for the tree.
• Seasonally prune your trees to promote new and healthy growth.
• Immediately treat any signs of insect infestations.

Prevention of Hypoxylon or Biscogniauxia canker can only be achieved by promoting the health of the tree. This approach allows the tree to employ its natural defenses to suppress the growth/development of this opportunistic fungus.

Hypoxylon Canker Disease

In this article, you discovered the definition of Hypoxylon canker disease, how to identify it, treat it, and prevent it from developing on your tree.

By taking immediate action to halt the progression of Hypoxylon canker, you can potentially save your tree from certain death.

When you fail to take measures against this disease, you are condemning your tree to certain death and promoting the spread of this fungal assassin.

Sources:
missouribotanicalgarden.org
extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/hypoxylon-canker
agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/landscaping/hypoxylon-canker-of-oaks/
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FR/FR40700.pdf

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062
(678) 505-0266

Originally published on: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/hypoxylon-canker-disease-biscogniauxia/

Why Is Half of My Tree Dead?

Your half-dead tree can cause a significant accident or infect the rest of your yard if you are unaware of its cause. By first knowing why your tree is dying, you can take action that may save it from falling and causing significant damage to your property.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information about the causes and treatments for a tree that is half dead.

My Tree Is Dead on One Side

You may be asking, “How can a tree die on one side?” Several possibilities can lead to this condition, and all of them require immediate action. For deciduous and evergreens alike, consider the following causes and their treatments:

Tree Diseases

Verticillium Wilt – Verticillium wilt is caused by a fungus called Verticillium dahliae or another less common species, Verticillium albo-atrum. This soil-borne fungus germinates when plant or tree roots grow near it, infecting them through wounds or natural openings. The fungus spreads through the host’s vascular system and causes the plant cells to clog themselves. Once the xylem is infected, water can no longer reach the leaves because of the clogging.

Treatment: This disease is challenging to manage because it persists in the soil indefinitely. Infected trees that are not yet dead can sometimes survive the fungus. Dead or affected branches should be removed to help the tree regain its vigor. However, this disease can be transmitted on unsterilized pruning tools.

In cases where an entire side of a tree has succumbed to the disease, the tree should be removed before falling during a storm or unexpectedly.

Fusarium Wilt – Commonly found worldwide, Fusarium wilt is a soil-borne pathogen Fusarium oxysporum that enters its host through the roots and interferes with its water-conducting vessels. As the disease spreads into the stems and leaves, it restricts water and nutrient flow, causing the foliage to wilt and turn yellow.

Treatment: Similar to Verticillium wilt, affected stems and branches should be removed. Fusarium wilt can also be treated with biological fungicides.

Phytophthora Root Rot – Many tree and shrub species are susceptible to Phytophthora root rot, developing root and/or crown rot, mainly if the soil around the base of the plant stays wet for long periods. The leaves of an infected tree will appear drought-stressed and may die quickly in late spring or early summer.

Treatment: You can combat Phytophthora root rot by increasing soil drainage, pruning out affected branches and stems, and by maintaining the root flare of the tree free from soil, mulch, and debris.

These diseases are easily transmitted from one host to the next by overhead watering or splashing, pruning activities with unsterile equipment, and improper disposal of infected clippings.

Environmental Causes of Tree Decline

Soil Compaction – Soil compaction occurs when heavy equipment, machinery, vehicles, or other factors lead to the compression of the soil surrounding a tree. Soil compaction reduces the amount of air, water, and nutrients available to tree and plant roots.

When tree roots on one side of a tree are impacted by soil compaction, an entire side or portion of the tree can wilt and die.

Treatment: Avoid parking, driving, or storing any vehicles or heavy equipment near or under any tree. Once the soil is compacted, a professional tree service should be hired to aerate the soil and monitor the health of the impacted tree.

Lightning – If it doesn’t blow it up, a lightning strike can severely compromise a tree’s vascular system by vaporizing the liquid within it. Depending on the location of the strike and how it travels through the tree, only a portion of it may be impacted.

Treatment: If you suspect that your tree has been struck by lightning, have a tree hazard assessment performed immediately to assess the need for treatment or removal. Read more about tree hazard assessments at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/why-do-i-need-tree-hazard-assessment/

Surface Root Damage – Due to erosion, poor soil quality, or improper watering, tree roots may surface over time. When these roots are damaged or pruned, they are highly vulnerable to infection by opportunistic diseases like Fusarium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora.

If surface roots on only one side of the root plate become infected, only a portion of the tree will likely display symptoms of infection, decline, or death.

Treatment: If the roots cannot be buried, they should be protected from damage by people or machinery. Once surface roots are damaged, a professional tree service should be called to evaluate the situation and recommend a course of action.

Stem Girdling Roots – Stem girdling roots are dysfunctional roots that circle the stem (trunk), choking off the flow of nutrients and water between the roots and the rest of the tree. They can also compress and weaken the trunk of a tree at the root collar, causing it to lean and lose stability. Trees with stem girdling roots are at a significant risk of declining health, premature death, n and falling suddenly.

Treatment: Stem girdling roots can be removed by using saws or pruners if they have not caused extensive stem compression. If one has caused severe damage, removal treatment must include measures to avoid damaging the stem. These roots are frequently left in place when their removal cannot be performed safely. It may be necessary to consult with a professional tree service to determine what coarse of action to take.

Boring Insect Infestations

Boring insects like beetles can quickly cause the decline of a portion of a tree. As they burrow through the tree’s bark, they will sometimes begin channeling through the xylem and phloem. In other cases, they may burrow into the heartwood of the tree, carrying fungi with them that infect the tree and disturb the flow of water and nutrients from the roots to the rest of the tree.

While initial symptoms may only appear on one side of the tree, the tree will eventually succumb and die, as more beetles successfully attack the tree as it weakens.

Treatment: Once a tree has been successfully attacked by beetles, treatment is challenging and will likely result in the removal and destruction of the infected tree. Most treatments for beetles are preventative and include:

• Setting traps
• Treating the bark of un-infested trees
• Removal and disposal of infested trees

However, the most exceptional line of defense for a tree is its health. In the case of insects or diseases, healthy trees can resist infestations and infections. Help your tree by:

• Watering it regularly
• Proper seasonal pruning
• Mulching with organic material
• Fertilizing when necessary
• Having it inspected annually

Read more about tree cutting and pruning at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/right-time-cutting-pruning-emergency-tree-removal/

Half of My Tree is Dead

In this article, you discovered what can cause half of a tree to die and what actions to take to either treat the tree or have it removed.

By taking immediate action when you notice the decline of your tree or a portion of it, you increase the possibility of saving the tree and returning it to a healthy state.

When you ignore the symptoms of disease or infestation, your tree can rapidly decline and die. Trees left untreated are more likely to fall during storms, causing catastrophic damages when landing on property, vehicles, and people.

Sources:
mortonarb.org/trees-plants/tree-and-plant-advice/help-diseases/verticillium-wilt
missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/environmental/girdling.aspx
extension.psu.edu/phytophthora-root-rot-on-woody-ornamentals
extension.umn.edu/soil-management-and-health/soil-compaction
ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/r280100811.html

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062
(678) 505-0266

Reasons Your Tree Changing Colors in Spring or Summer is a Bad Sign

Is your tree changing color when it should be green? Tree foliage will change color for several reasons. Some of those reasons may lead to the death of the tree, while others are merely seasonal.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered information on why trees change color, and when a color change signals severe problems with trees.

Deciduous vs. Evergreen Trees

In a very general sense, trees may be classified in one of two categories; deciduous or evergreen. When their foliage changes color, it can be interpreted as:

Deciduous Trees – A deciduous tree keeps its green color throughout spring and summer. During autumn, its leaves will change from green to vibrant yellow, orange, red, or purple before falling to the ground.

This color change occurs as the days shorten and temperatures drop. As the leaves cease their food making process, the chlorophyll breaks down, the green color fades away, and so begins the fall color change and leaf drop spectacle.

This process also enables the tree to conserve energy as it prepares to enter dormancy throughout late autumn and winter.

Evergreen Trees – As the name suggests, these trees remain green throughout the year. Typically, they will drop small amounts of foliage as new growth takes its place during the spring and summer months.

While healthy evergreen trees slow down considerably during autumn and winter months, they retain their foliage and green color.

Diseased, Infested, and Dying Trees

When a deciduous tree changes color during spring or summer months, or an evergreen changes color at any time, there is cause for concern. One or a combination of the following may be causing the tree to decline in health or die:

Drought – Drought conditions can happen any time throughout the year, and trees viscerally respond to hydraulic failure.

When there is a lack of water within a tree, the entire crown may be affected in the following ways:

• Chlorosis (loss of color) of the foliage
• Wilting
• Premature leaf drop
• Hardening of branches and twigs
• Self-pruning (shedding of entire branches)

If a regular water supply is not restored to the tree at the onset of drought symptoms, the tree will likely die.

Solution: Maintain a watering pattern throughout the year, increasing the frequency during dry stretches and decreasing during rainy seasons.

Root Rot – Excess water may deprive tree roots of getting the air that they need, leading to decay. To avoid root rot, it is best to only water trees when the soil becomes dry, and to plant the tree in well-drained soil.

Symptoms of root rot are very similar to those of drought, including chlorosis, and premature leaf drop, as both ailments cause hydraulic failure within the tree.

One of the significant differences between drought and root rot is the destabilization of a tree affected by root rot. Without firm roots to anchor the tree, the lightest of storm activity may cause it to topple.

Solution: Avoid overwatering trees and plants located in poorly drained soil. If root rot has already occurred, contact a tree service professional to evaluate the situation and recommend a course of action.

Heart Rot – Trees are susceptible to heart-rotting fungi that produce a lightweight, soft, spongy, stringy, or powdery heart decay. Signs that a tree is rotting from the inside are:

• Leaf chlorosis
• Wilting
• Premature leaf drop
• Dead and brittle branches
• Mushroom conks growing from the trunk
• Bark abnormalities (swelling, deep cracks, or holes)

While trees are very good at compartmentalizing (isolating) damaged or diseased portions of themselves, some fungi can cause massive amounts of potentially fatal damage before the tree can react.

Solution: The following will help a tree avoid heart rot:

• Promote the tree’s health (watering, pruning, fertilizing, mulching)
• Prune in late fall or early winter
• Avoid bark damage
• Remove storm-damaged branches

Trees with symptoms of heart rot should be evaluated and treated or removed by a tree service professional, as soon as possible to avoid severe damages should the tree topple or collapse.

If your tree is dying, learn more about what you can do at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/my-tree-is-dying-what-do-i-do/

Anthracnose – Anthracnose can attack a tree (fruit trees are more susceptible) at any stage of its growth and can affect leaves, stems, pods, fruits, and roots. The symptoms of anthracnose are:

• Small irregular yellow, brown, or black spots that expand and merge together on foliage. Severe infections can affect entire portions of the crown.
• Cankers on stems and branches that cause extreme defoliation and rotting of fruit and roots.
• Fruits develop sunken circular spots that darken with age, eventually producing gelatinous pink spore masses.

Solution: The following can help prevent an anthracnose infection:

• Promote your tree’s health (watering, pruning, fertilizing, mulching)
• Transplant only healthy seedlings
• Remove and destroy infected tree parts
• Harvest unripe but mature fruits
• Plants species that are resistant to anthracnose disease
• Keep the landscape free of weeds

If your tree has become severely infected with anthracnose, the best containment of the disease may be the complete removal and destruction of the tree. Hire a tree service professional to evaluate the tree’s situation, and risk to surrounding vegetation before deciding on a course of action.

You can learn more about tree diseases and treatment at toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-marietta-ga-tree-diseases-identification-treatment/

Insect Infestation – Severe infestations by honeydew-producing aphids, leaf-consuming caterpillars, trunk burrowing beetles, and other opportunistic insects can lead to a tree being overstressed and dying. Symptoms of an insect infestation may include:

• Chlorosis of the foliage of a portion of or the entire crown
• Wilting and leaf drop
• Damaged or eaten foliage
• The appearance of sooty mold on infested foliage
• The presence of ants (colonizing and tending to aphids)
• Severe premature leaf drop
• Burrowed circular holes in branch or trunk bark

Solution: Upon detection of an insect infestation, the infected and surrounding trees should be treated and protected with:

• Insect traps (tree bands, ant traps, beetle traps, etc.)
• Neem oil spray
• Insecticide

In cases where beetles and other burrowing insects are involved, a tree service professional should be contracted to survey the tree, property, and surrounding landscape to attempt to gain full control over the infestation.

Climbing Vines – If left uncontrolled, climbing vines are capable of ascending to the top of a tree and spreading across its crown. As the vine spreads its foliage, it absorbs the sunlight otherwise intended for the tree, leading to the following:

• Leaf chlorosis
• Wilting
• Premature leaf drop
• Nutrient deficiency (weakened health)

When vines take over the canopy of a tree, you may see green, healthy foliage (from the vine) mixed with wilting or dying foliage (from the tree). As the tree weakens, it will become susceptible to insect infestation and disease, compounding its health decline and hastening its death.

Solution: Sever the vine from its root system near the ground and let it die off. However, don’t try to remove the vine from the tree. As the vine was climbing, it anchored to the tree’s bark, any attempt to pull the vine down may severely damage the bark, resulting in the girdling of the tree.

To learn more on how to save your tree from clinging vines, read toddsmariettatreeservices.com/saving-trees-clinging-vines/

Trees Changing Colors

Is your tree turning yellow or brown when it’s supposed to be green? There are several reasons that trees will change color, and many of those reasons may indicate serious problems that can kill the tree.

In this article, you discovered why trees change color in the fall, and problems that may lead them to change color and suffer leaf drop in the spring or summer months.

While it is normal for deciduous trees to change color in the fall, ignoring an off-season color change or leaf drop can lead to the death of your tree.

Sources:
https://www.esf.edu/pubprog/brochure/leaves/leaves.htm
https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/chlorosis/
http://www.oisat.org/pests/diseases/fungal/anthracnose.html
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/be_careful_where_you_spray_that_stuff

Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062
(678) 505-0266

Originally published on: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/reasons-tree-changing-colors-spring-summer-bad-sign/

5 Marietta Ga Tree Diseases – Identification and Treatment

That concerning tree in your yard may be diseased and risky to leave unaddressed. However, inaction is what often leads to severe and avoidable damage.

While diseased trees can pose a threat to your landscape, property, and surrounding people, identifying and treating such cases properly can mitigate and prevent disastrous tree fall situations.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com names five common tree diseases in Marietta GA, how to identify, treat, and when to have the tree evaluated by a professional.

Fire Blight Symptoms and Treatment

Fire blight is a disease that flourishes in humid, rainy weather when the average temperature rises to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and above.

Symptoms – As the name implies, symptoms of this disease cause the appearance of fire scorching or burning. When inspecting your tree, look for these signs:

• Infected flowers turn black and die.
• Twigs and stems turn black and curl over.
• Branches appear scorched as their leaves turn black and shrivel up.
• Cankers will appear on branches and the trunk.

Transmission – Fire blight is easily transmitted to other trees, shrubs, and plants by birds, animals, splashing water, and unsterile gardening tools.

Treatment – The following measures should be taken immediately to eliminate and prevent the spread of fire blight:

• Apply a copper fungicide before the flowering season.
• Extensive pruning of all affected areas.
• Take pest control measures to eliminate ants and other insects which may transmit the disease.
• Convert your watering method to drip lines. (Avoid sprinklers or spraying)
• Sanitize gardening equipment with a water and bleach solution after use on infected landscapes.

Call a Professional – When more than 25% of a tree must be removed, seek the advice of a professional tree service or arborist. It may be necessary to remove the tree altogether. Likewise, when multiple trees, shrubs, and plants are infected, a professional can help you devise a plan to halt the disease.

Powdery Mildew Symptoms and Treatment

Much like fire blight, powdery mildew thrives in the springtime when temperatures range from 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. There are several fungi which can produce powdery mildew.

Symptoms – As the name suggests, powdery mildew can appear on any part of its host and resembles white or slightly off-white mildew. Numerous spores begin to emerge as the fungi mature.

Transmission – Insects such as aphids are the principal means of transmission. However, when spores are released, splashing water or wind may spread the fungi.

Treatment – The following measures will help you control and eliminate powdery mildew from your landscape:

• Apply non-chemical organic fungicides such as milk, bicarbonates, and oil. An effective solution is diluted at 1 part fungicide to 10 parts water. This fungicidal mix produces outstanding results when used for preventative measures or sprayed directly on the infected plant.
• Applying a neem oil solution disrupts the fungus’ metabolism – preventing spore production.

Call a Professional – When topical treatment can’t stop powdery mildew, or when it eliminates powdery mildew, but your tree’s health continues to decline, there may be another pathogen or insect at work. Request an inspection and evaluation from a tree care professional.

Anthracnose Symptoms and Treatment

Anthracnose thrives in the springtime with prolonged periods of rainfall and when temperatures are consistently mild.

Symptoms – The symptoms of anthracnose include the following:

• Bud and twig death
• Dead spots on leaves
• Dead tissue or blotches along and between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop
• Lesions known as cankers in tree bark (open wounds)
• Dark colored pimple-like fruiting structures (acervuli) on the underside of leaves.

Transmission – Similar to fire blight, anthracnose is easily transmitted to other trees, shrubs, and plants by wildlife, splashing water, rain, and unsterile gardening tools.

Anthracnose fungi (there are several fungi which can cause anthracnose) can survive the winter months in fallen leaves, or in cankers formed in the bark of branches or the trunk.

Treatment – The following measures should be taken immediately to eliminate and prevent the spread of anthracnose:

• Extensive pruning of all affected parts.
• Utilize a fire pit or bonfire to destroy affected clippings and foliage.
• Convert your watering systems to drip lines. (Avoid sprinklers or spraying)
• Sanitize gardening equipment with a water and bleach solution after use on infected landscapes.

Read the following article for more on How to Identify, Treat, and Prevent Anthracnose.

Call a Professional – When 25% or more of a tree must be removed, seek the advice and assistance of an arborist or reputable tree service.

It may be necessary to remove the tree altogether. Without treating anthracnose, you will be leaving your tree susceptible to other infections and infestations.

Root Rot Symptoms and Treatment

Changes in landscaping, soil compaction, soil composition, or persistent rains may cause root rot.

Symptoms – Severe and fast branch die-back, premature color change of the leaves, widespread leaf spots, sap coming from the bark, and mushrooms around the root flare may all indicate root rot.

Transmission – Root rot is typically the result of poor drainage or changes in the soil composition and texture. This either kills the roots or allows access to pathogens, which weakens and eventually kills them.

Treatment – If your tree is diagnosed with root rot, the recommended treatment is to have the tree removed.

To prevent further cases of root rot, ensure that the soil in your landscape is well-drained, and that roots are protected from soil compaction.

Call a Professional – If you suspect that a tree is suffering and dying from root rot, call a professional to have the tree evaluated immediately. Depending on the size of the tree and the amount of damage to the roots, the tree may fall at any time.

Heart Rot Symptoms and Treatment

When a fungal disease causes the softening and decay of the wood found at the center of a tree’s trunk and branches, this is known as heart rot.

The softening of the heartwood leaves a tree vulnerable to the pressure of its own weight and prone to collapse.

Symptoms – A reliable indicator that heart rot is present within a tree is the presence of fungus conks or mushrooms growing from the tree’s trunk or branches.

Transmission – Heart rot is able to attack the heartwood of a tree through damaged bark or improper pruning.

Treatment – Control of heart rot is achieved by:

• Maintaining your trees healthy and vigorous.
• Using proper pruning techniques.
• Having the trees inspected by an arborist annually.
• Providing post-storm care and maintenance.

Heart rot affects trees across the world. When trees are healthy, they are able to isolate and stop this disease through a process called compartmentalization.

Call a Professional – If you suspect that your tree is suffering from heart rot, do not hesitate to call a professional tree service to evaluate the tree and recommend a course of action. Act promptly, as trees that suffer from this disease can cause catastrophic damages when they collapse unexpectedly.

Tree Disease and Landscape Health

Because diseased trees are susceptible to fall at any time, it is imperative to be educated and swift in taking action to treat these disease cases.

Discovering how to identify and treat the diseases that are common in Marietta Georgia is a great start.

Being informed and giving more attention to your trees may seem like extra effort, but sleeping well at night knowing your property and people are safe is worth the energy.

Sources:
http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1238&title=Common%20Landscape%20Diseases%20in%20Georgia
http://www.gfc.state.ga.us/community-forests/management/tree-care/insects-and-diseases/index.cfm

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Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062
(678) 505-0266

Originally published on: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/5-marietta-ga-tree-diseases-identification-treatment/

How to Identify, Treat, and Prevent Anthracnose

You may be unknowingly spreading disease all over your landscape. Those yellow, brown, or black spots on your tree may be anthracnose. Avoid hosing down your tree to try and clean it, you could be spreading this fungi everywhere!

Over time and repeated attacks, anthracnose can weaken your tree’s health and provide an opportunity for other disease and infestation. Once identified, tree anthracnose should be treated immediately.

toddsmariettatreeservices.com gathered this information to help you identify, treat, prevent anthracnose, and uncover the fungi responsible for causing it.

What Is the Cause of Anthracnose?

Tree anthracnose is caused by a fungal infection fueled by optimal weather conditions. The following are some of the fungi responsible for anthracnose and some of the tree species they infect:

• Apiognomonia Errabunda – Attacks tilia, Quercus, beech, oak, lindens, and Fagus (ficus) trees.
• Apiognomonia Veneta – Attacks london planes and sycamores.
• Colletotrichum Gloeosporioides – Attacks ash, tulip, and cacao or cocoa trees.
• Discula Fraxinea – Attacks maple, ash, and fringetree.
• Glomerella Fungi Species – Attacks banana, mango, papaya, and lemons.
• Gnomonia Fungi Species – Attacks oak, maple, sycamore, walnut, ash, and dogwood trees.
• Marssonina Fungi Species – Attacks aspen, poplars, and cottonwood trees.
• Stegophora ulmea – Attacks elm trees.

The above-mentioned fungi overwinter in either the leaves that have fallen to the ground, or in cankers on the tree’s bark. In springtime, the fungi’s reproduction process is favored by cool temperatures and prolonged periods of rain.

As the fungi generate spores, splashing rain, overhead watering, and/or the wind disperses them to leaf buds, shoots, or young leaves. The fungi then colonize the tissue of the new host and begin producing spores to be carried off in the same manner.

As long as temperatures remain mild and moist conditions persist, the fungi will continue to colonize leaf tissue, produce spores, and reinfect the same leaves or spread to others. Without intervention, this process can repeat itself throughout spring and into early summer.

Anthracnose and other fungal diseases that attack trees need water (moisture) to grow, propagate, and colonize new hosts. These diseases are less common in warmer regions that have less rainfall.

What Are the Symptoms of Anthracnose?

While anthracnose can be caused by several different species of fungi, the symptoms are the same. Here is how to identify an anthracnose infection:

• Bud death
• Twig death
• Dead spots on leaves
• Dead tissue along leaf veins
• Dead blotches between leaf veins
• Unseasonal or premature leaf-drop
• Lesions known as cankers in tree bark (open wounds)

A common symptom among all of the anthracnose diseases is the presence of acervuli. Use a magnifying glass to examine the underside of infected leaves. You are looking for dark colored pimple-like fruiting structures (acervuli).

In infected trees, these structures may also be found peppered along dead twigs.

How Do You Treat Anthracnose?

While damages resulting from anthracnose infections are generally inconsequential to the overall health of a tree, repeated attacks from the disease year after year can weaken a tree’s defenses enough to leave it susceptible to other diseases and insect infestations.

The following measures will help to treat the disease and reduce the potential for infection in the coming springtime:

Don’t Spray the Foliage – Anthracnose fungi depend on splashing water and wind to carry them from one host to another. If you try to wash off the foliage, you are doing more to help the fungi live than to save your tree.

Fallen Leaves – Collect and destroy fallen leaves. These dead leaves (if left on the ground) provide an optimal location for fungi to overwinter.

Pruning – For the fungi and acervuli found in blighted twigs, these areas should be pruned back and destroyed.

Crown thinning will allow more air and light to reach the inner branches and foliage, which in turn will help fight against the fungi.

Depending on the extent of the infection, excessive pruning may be necessary. If this is the case, contact a professional tree service to evaluate the situation.

Tip: To destroy the pruned portion of the tree and/or leaves, light up the fire pit or have a bonfire.

After pruning any diseased plant, shrub, or tree, make certain that your tools are sanitized before storing them or using them again. Use a 1 part bleach to 6 parts water solution to wash your tools.

Fungicides – In areas or with trees that have a history of anthracnose infections, fungicides can be used to further curtail its spreading.

Knowing the species of your tree will help you select the right fungicide. Many of them are labeled for use against specific fungi, and the fungi which cause anthracnose are typically host species specific.

How Can Anthracnose Be Prevented?

By providing plants and trees with well drained and enriched soil, nutrient-rich fertilizer, sufficient water, and annual pruning, you will help them maintain a vigorous defense system and enable them to resist diseases more handily.

If you use a sprinkler or overhead watering system, consider modifying it or replacing it with a drip system. Drip systems don’t create the splashing effect necessary to carry fungus spores from host to host.

Finally, take action against other fungal invaders and pests to prevent the tree’s health from weakening.

Tree Health and Disease Prevention

There is more to preventing tree diseases than just hosing down your trees. To stop the spread of anthracnose and prevent its return, it takes an understanding of what it is and how it spreads from host to host.

In this article, you discovered what causes anthracnose, how to correctly identify it by common characteristics, how to treat it, and the steps to prevent it.

Anthracnose, through repeated attacks, will eventually weaken your tree and allow other more invasive diseases and tree pests to attack. Treatment and prevention measures should begin as soon as this disease is positively identified.

For more signs and symptoms of a troubled tree, visit http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/troubled-tree-signs-symptoms/

Sources:

http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7420.html
https://extension.psu.edu/anthracnose-on-shade-trees
https://wiki.bugwood.org/HPIPM:Anthracnose_Diseases
https://www.ppws.vt.edu/content/dam/ppws_vt_edu/extension/plant-disease-clinic/files/clinic-report-2013.pdf
https://www.cabi.org/isc/datasheet/25356

Photchana Trakunsukharat, Department of Agriculture, Thailand [CC BY 3.0 au], via Wikimedia Commons

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Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062
(678) 505-0266

Originally published on: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/how-to-identify-treat-prevent-anthracnose/

Saving Trees From Clinging Vines

Clinging or in simpler words unwanted vines can be challenging to deal with once they latch on to your garden landscape and trees.

Since vines grow and develop very fast, it won’t take long before they can lead to serious issues and even grow further despite your aim to deal with them.

Vines can rapidly creep into new spots; they develop inside tree canopies, sweep on to the edge of the buildings, and squeeze the life out of lower level plants and shrubs by strangling them and hindering them from being exposed to sunlight.

At Todd’s we cut and remove trees that have been damaged or killed from vines. Learn the best ways to deal and remove the deadly tree killing vines.

Vines Strangle, Smother And Kill Trees

Vines can easily creep their way with ease to the body of the trees. Then they smother and struggle them and once they reach a tree’s canopy, they prevent sunlight from showing in the leaves of the tree. As we know, sunlight is a form of energy for the plant and the vines against the tree compete for getting necessary nutrients and liquids.

An extra problem that emerges, is that when left uncontrolled and unhindered, ivy vines can fully conceal a tree’s trunk and its branches. As it smothers around and grows in length, it leads to trees and their branches falling without much resistance.

Rich ivy layers prevent the tree’s bark exposure to clean air and microorganisms. Vines are damaging for the trees and should be dealt with. To learn more about the structural damages caused by vines, visit www.thetreecareguide.com/climbing-vines-tree-killers/

Severing Vines from Their Roots

You can severe the vines to their core around the root of the trunk with sharp garden clippers. If the tree is densely smothered in vines grown to more than inch, you will have to cut through the vine with extra caution and carefully remove it from the bark. The aim here is to severe all vines from their nutrient sources drawn from the soil so they will die off.

After you cut the vines from the root body, you’ll have to wait to see progress. It’s best to leave the rest of the ivy on the tree to dry off. Ivy creeps around a tree using a sticky substance combined with micro root hairs that adhere densely to the crevices of the bark.

There is a high risk of heavily ruining the tree if you decide to forcefully pull the ivy off its body. If you want you can take hedge shears to trim the ivy leaves. The leaves though will progressively shrivel and leave the tree exposed to more sunlight.

Tip: It’s best to wear garden gloves and a protective uniform to prevent any irritations whilst trimming the vines. Some vine species may cause major skin irritation and more serious issues.

Getting Rid of Vines and Their Roots

Get rid of all the vines by pulling the roots out of the soil within a 2 foot circle around the tree. This will prevent any future damage to the tree. It is ideal to do it once the soil is a bit moist after rain or watering.

A leaf or wood chip mulch 2 inches thick and three feet around the tree is recommended to maintain adequate moisture and block lawn mowers from reaching directly to the roots. Also make sure the mulch is at 3 inches distance from the trunk of tree to allow proper air circulation for the bark and leave any vines that try to grow back exposed.

Dying Vines Left on Your Tree

While many will quickly trim off the ivy off the tree once it’s dead, its complex creeping mechanism will still be active. So the best thing to do is to let the ivy dry out and fall off naturally, as to maintain the bark’s integrity.

Once a competitor (such as an invasive vine) has been eliminated, trees are fairly fast to recover. It is important to keep a watchful eye on the tree though, as damages may be more extensive and hidden by the vine’s foliage. Hence the importance of acting quickly when a vine makes your tree its host.

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Todd’s Marietta Tree Services

200 Cobb Pkwy N Ste 428 Marietta, GA 30062
(678) 505-0266

Originally published on: http://www.toddsmariettatreeservices.com/saving-trees-clinging-vines/